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“Snowboarding in Colorado is non secular,” mentioned my good friend Rahul, attempting to persuade me and my household to affix his household on a current ski trip. “There’s a real sense of area and freedom—and with the great snow, there’s nothing prefer it.”
To be sincere: As an inexperienced skier, I used to be intimidated by the concept of snowboarding within the Rocky Mountains, regardless that I’ve bought deep roots there going again a number of generations. My great-great-grandfather, Thomas Begley, moved to Colorado in the course of the Gold Rush, and my great-grandfather, grandfather, and pop all grew up in Denver.
However after I heard that Rahul had already plotted out a straightforward (and enjoyable) itinerary in Vail, Breckenridge and Keystone, I made a decision to take the leap. It was useful to have a seasoned veteran guiding the best way, however there was nonetheless quite a bit to study as a first-time Colorado skier.
Right here’s what I found on a very epic ski journey.
Taking within the view of the Rocky Mountains in Vail, Colorado.
Beginning Off Simple
First off: A unclean little secret. These 4 generations of relations of mine from Colorado? None of them skied and, due to this fact, didn’t go the gene all the way down to me. My mother tried to take me snowboarding at Blue Hills in Massachusetts after I was little, however I cried the entire time. I tried once more in highschool at Afton Alps in Minnesota—the place Lindsey Vonn minimize her enamel—however let’s simply say I used to be no Lindsey Vonn.
My husband, alternatively, grew up snowboarding and needed to get our daughter into the game when she was sufficiently old. So a couple of years in the past, I made a decision to offer it one other strive. Navigating the bunny slopes as a timid, middle-aged mother was humbling—particularly when my fearless youngster flew previous me—however due to some very affected person instructors I started to get the hold of issues.
Throughout the pandemic, my household and I began escaping from our house in New York Metropolis on common ski weekends all through the Northeast. Seems we have been a part of a pattern. In 2021, ski visits within the U.S. reached an all-time excessive, due to folks like us who have been on the lookout for a approach to safely benefit from the nice outside.
Vail Resorts additionally contributed to the pattern when it launched the “Epic for Everybody” idea, decreasing the value of an annual Epic Cross to assist entice newcomers. It labored: I grew to become one of many tens of millions who signed on to be an Epic Cross Holder in 2021/22 (2.1 million folks, to be actual). The numbers went even increased in the course of the newest ski season—up 6% to 2.3 million.
A selfie on Vail Mountain with (from left) Sabine, Rahul and Lucy.
Testing the Epic Cross
Over the primary two seasons of getting an Epic Cross, I managed to take a look at quite a few mountains all through the Northeast with my household. We conquered the greens at beginner-friendly Jack Frost-Huge Boulder in Pennsylvania’s Pocono Mountains. We dive-bombed down Hunter Mountain in New York’s Catskills. We navigated a few of Vermont’s southernmost slopes at Mount Snow. We checked out family-friendly Okemo in Vermont. We made our approach to the summit of Vermont’s highest peak at Stowe Mountain Resort. And that was only for starters.
With only a handful of ski days every season, the Epic Cross paid off—however one of many massive perks, after all, is gaining access to critical mountains around the globe, together with Colorado resorts like Vail and Crested Butte, Park Metropolis in Utah and Whistler Blackcomb in Canada—simply to call a couple of. Relying on which Epic Cross you purchase, you additionally get entry to accomplice resorts like Colorado’s Telluride.
Now, I used to be lastly prepared to take a look at these next-level perks.
A nighttime view of Vail.
The Lay of the Land
On condition that Vail Resorts is the model behind the Epic Cross, it’s no shock that the corporate has quite a few resorts within the Colorado Rockies. Having so many choices was a bit mind-boggling, however Rahul had a plan: to separate the journey between a number of mountains. Since his spouse, Nisha, is not a skier, he selected places with a energetic après ski scene. And since we have been touring with my 10-year-old daughter, Lucy, and Rahul’s 9-year-old daughter, Sabine, we needed to verify every little thing was family-friendly.
The plan was to remain in Breckenridge (a sprawling, beginner-friendly mountain) and likewise take a look at close by Keystone (a ski-first resort that’s a bit extra value-oriented). Then we’d head to Vail (which is understood for its glitz and legendary again bowls) with some snowboarding at close by Beaver Creek (a family-friendly slope close to Vail).
What’s nice in regards to the ski resorts within the Rockies is how shut they’re to one another. Breckenridge and Keystone are a 20-minute drive aside, so you possibly can simply bounce forwards and backwards. About an hour west is Vail and Beaver Creek, that are additionally round 20 minutes aside.
Heading up the mountain on Vail’s Cascade elevate.
The Snowboarding
As a newbie who’s used to East Coast mountains that wrap up by early March, it stunned me simply how late into the season among the Colorado resorts keep open. For example, Breckenridge’s slopes don’t shut till late Could.
The climate was additionally a shock. Even single-digit days have been nice (one thing you’ll by no means hear me say when the wind chill dips out east). Perhaps it’s being so near the solar or possibly it’s Colorado’s dry local weather—nevertheless it simply didn’t really feel as chilly.
One factor that wasn’t a shock: The snowboarding is best right here, and in spite of everything that observe on icy East Coast slopes, I discovered my confidence hovering in Colorado. The powder is really one thing to behold. It’s mild and fluffy and simpler to navigate. And in contrast to the inexperienced runs on the East Coast, the place you’re down the mountain in a couple of minutes, the Colorado inexperienced trails went on ceaselessly. I spent far more time on the snow and fewer time on the chairlifts.
I additionally cherished having the ability to pattern so many mountains throughout a brief journey. And because of the huge expanses of area, even on probably the most crowded days, the elevate traces have been by no means lengthy and there was tons of room to stretch out.
The Eddy Taproom & Resort in Golden, Colorado
Acclimating is Necessary
In the event you’re coming from a spot just like the East Coast, it’s essential to acclimate earlier than you head into the Rockies, since altitude illness is an actual factor. So we determined to spend a pair days within the Denver space earlier than making our means into the mountains. Within the hip LoDo neighborhood, we shopped for cowboy shirts at Rockmount Ranch Put on (my dad’s favourite Western gear retailer), checked out the Cruise Room on the Oxford Resort (the place my grandfather used to have lunch again within the day), and took selfies in entrance of Union Station (the place my dad caught the practice to go on trip when he was younger).
We stayed on the Eddy Taproom & Resort in close by Golden, Colorado, slightly city within the foothills of the Rockies with an industrial previous. Constructed on the situation of a former brickwork manufacturing facility, the Eddy has a loft-like design that pays homage to its craftsman roots, whereas the restaurant serves mountain delicacies like mac & cheese with brisket burnt ends, alongside craft brews. The city of Golden is the house of Coors (which is an enormous attraction), however there’s a lot extra to do and see, from fashionable boutiques to chill eating places.
On the chairlift at Breckenridge.
Plan Properly
In terms of plotting out your itinerary, it’s a good suggestion to ski on the decrease altitude mountains first. The city of Breckenridge sits at 9,600 ft versus the bottom of Keystone (9,280 ft) and Vail (8,120).
We made the error of beginning at Breckenridge, and the impression of the altitude was actual. You wouldn’t assume that a couple of hundred ft would make a distinction, however I observed how a lot simpler it was at Keystone. (In accordance with Emily, our ski information at Keystone, I wasn’t imagining issues—your sleep is even slightly extra restful at a decrease altitude.) If I may do it over, I might have gone to Vail first and labored our means as much as Breck.
Talking of planning, I virtually rented an affordable Toyota Corolla, pondering that it wouldn’t be that snowy in late March. Nevertheless it snowed day by day (even on days when my climate app referred to as for a 0% probability of snow). And after hitting a couple of squalls on the mountain passes and even some black ice on the freeway, I used to be grateful to have upgraded to a four-wheel-drive Jeep Wrangler.
The Grand Hyatt Vail with the Cascade chairlift.
Inns and Lodging
When you could have the Epic Cross, you will get a 20% low cost at some inns. However since we booked late within the season, costs at numerous the spots have been excessive. So we spent three nights at an Airbnb in Breckenridge that was a few 10-minute stroll from the slopes. It was good to have the facilities of a condominium, and the city has free shuttles so that you simply don’t have to fret about parking on the mountain. But when I may do it once more, I might go for a ski-in ski-out property like the brand new design-focused Gravity Haus Breck, the place we had dinner one night time at its funky in-house restaurant, Cabin Juice. (Professional-tip: E book early within the season to get one of the best charges.)
In Vail, we splurged on a room on the Grand Hyatt, a ski-in ski-out property set on the base of the Cascade Village elevate. Being at a resort with its personal virtually personal elevate was a game-changer. And it didn’t harm that the Grand Hyatt has stunning sizzling tubs and a heated outside pool overlooking the Gore River. The resort additionally has tons of enjoyable facilities for après and past: champagne sabering periods, an ax-throwing bar, a golf simulator, a recreation room with air hockey, hearth pits with s’mores for roasting, the record goes on.
A comfortable nook at Alpenrose Vail.
The Après Scene
Apart from the snowboarding, the cities themselves are epic. Breckenridge is a former mining city, and behind the previous Western façades you’ll discover each type of retailer you possibly can consider, from ski gear to toys to clothes. There’s some very subtle eating like Rootstalk and the Breckenridge Distillery, combined in with family-friendly eating places like Giampietro Pasta & Pizzeria and Downstairs at Erics (which the youngsters cherished for the connected arcade).
Vail is likely one of the largest ski mountains within the nation, celebrating its sixtieth anniversary this 12 months—and, no shock— the alternatives for high-end eating and designer procuring are limitless. Fur hasn’t gone out of favor right here, and if you’re out there for a pair of $695 paint-splattered denims, that is the place. However I additionally discovered it surprisingly family-friendly with shops like Needs (toy heaven) and eating places just like the Swiss Chalet Restaurant, which feels such as you’ve been transported to a mountainside in Switzerland and focuses on all types of fondue—all the time a kid-pleaser. We did all of it: cheese fondue, meat fondue, chocolate fondue.
One other meals spotlight: Alpenrose, which was taken over a couple of years in the past by Alyssa Thoma and her brother Joshua, who additionally run Vail’s red-hot Almresi. They’ve reworked the area with fake fur throws and rose particulars in every single place you look. There are additionally personal gondolas exterior that you could lease for a personal eating expertise. The meals places a contemporary spin on conventional Swiss and Austrian dishes, with highlights just like the Roasti Ballchen (potato balls filled with Swiss cheese, bacon and bitter cream) and the Hax’n (a roasted pork shank served with a recent baked German pretzel, mustard and Obazda cheese).
A view of the Grand Hyatt Vail on Gore Creek.
The Takeaway
Wanting again, it’s arduous to consider that I used to be so apprehensive about snowboarding out West. That Colorado freedom that Rahul talked about was actual—and the superb cities took issues to the nexy degree. I walked away on a real mountain excessive and am already planning my subsequent Epic getaway.
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